I'm going over to mtbr. My name is Mr. Blonde.

It's in the manual. Check their site if you don't have one. They are designed to be lowered to 130 or 100 with a simple spacer swap. You can make your own spacer and lower it to whatever.

which 36?

Hi, i noticed on one of the forums that you make shims out of pop cans. How exactly do you do that, I tried but when i was rolling it onto the post it didn't really bend it either got pointy or split at the top. Maybe i need higher quality pop cans? any input would be great thanks.

Thanks, I actually know one 27 year old who co-owns a shop with a 38 year old. I would be working there but it's a small town without a very big MTB scene. They say they need to pay themselves before they can pay me. Congradulations on being married for almost a year and I hope you have a good anniversery.

I wrote answer while you posted, sorry!

this sorta thing http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/REFILLABLE-BUTANE-GAS-PENCIL-BLOW-TORCH-SOLDERING-IRON_W0QQitemZ300200400032QQihZ020QQcategoryZ106001QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

regarding a blow torch to get the solder on tied and soldered wheels. I used what i believe is called a gas gun soldering iron. Essentially a mini blowtorch that looks like a soldering iron with no tip, with a flame that's not as hot. you don't need to use the flame part of it really either, you can hold it slightly away from it. And whilst the solder's still hot you have to tap the wheel pretty hard with like a wrench, and the runny solder gets into all the gaps, and the excess bounces off. Ends up looking neat. Like you said, it's easy when you get the hang of it, but it's time consuming as hell.